Saturday, 20 December 2014

More than a wee dram at Dram & Smoke

What? Dram & Smoke, a Scottish themed dining experience. Whilst I have no idea whether this is the brainchild of Scots the food and experience was authentically Scottish (I have Scottish ancestors and did live in the Highlands for some time so do feel authorised to make this claim!)

Warm whiskey & ginger cocktails on arrival, tartan blankets to place over cold legs and a menu of haggis, smoked coley, savoury porridge, venison Wellington & an incredible dark chocolate mousse with home made shortbread and salted butterscotch sauce to finish. And not forgetting endless amounts of Monkey Shoulder whiskey.

I would definitely recommend Dram & Smoke to anyone looking for a dining experience, the food was lovingly home made and high quality and you weren't ripped off when you got in (whiskey cocktails were a mere £5). The only thing it lacked was the theatre that often comes with dining experiences (think Ginger Line & Mile High) but if you're more about the food & drink this is definitely worth a go.

Rumour has it there will be four projects in 2015, possibly starting with a burns night supper, so plenty of time to check it out.

Where? The one we went to was close to London Bridge station but the venues change with different events.

Do? Go in a group, the bigger the better. The room is set up like a wedding (not decor wise) so you'll be on a table with several people you don't know. With that the food is served on big sharing plates so if you're keen to carve the version make sure you sit by the bricks as this is where they rest the food!

The other thing to mention is it's a cash only bar, so take money.

And finally, if you're going to a Dram & Smoke event at a cooler time of year be sure to wear something warm enough, it was pretty nippy so the tartan blankets definitely acted as more than just decoration.

Don't? Go if you're a veggie, this is definitely not for you.

5 course menu with arrival cocktail £40.

Blue cheese & bacon porridge


Venison Wellington


Dark chocolate & raspberry mousse with salter butterscotch sauce and shortbread




Monday, 17 November 2014

Hoxton meets Holborn

What? The Hoxton, an anti-hotel catering for the young and trendy in an otherwise untrendy part of town.

The first thing you'll notice about The Hoxton is that it's very image orientated, from it's decor through to its clientele. Not in an achingly cool or intimidating way though.

The second thing of noteriety is that its creators are clearly very smart. They've created a destination that super-serves weekend breakers, after work drinkers and morning commuters; with rooms, a drinking lobby, two dinner options and a collaboration with the 'Grind' coffee chain.

H&B's broad but one-sided menu features a range of 'build your own dinner' options with meat, fish, salad, veg and pasta. I opted for the (beef) burger and a good burger it was, but it didn't quite have the competitive edge I was expecting for a £10 burger. Juicy and rare (just as a burger should be) served in a brioche (standard) but loaded with pickle. Whilst pickles may be a personal food-hell generally speaking they're quite polarising, so please stick to serving them on a plate so they don't pollute the whole damn burger. 

Our burger was accompanied by truffle fries (£7) which like the burger were nice but not incredible. Our wildcard order was sprouts with sour cherry & bacon which were a bit burnt and not something I'd recommend. I'll reserve them for 25th December in future.

Beyond the food our experience was both good and bad. Good because my dinner date was 30 minutes late (see 'where') and the guy on reception bent over backwards to relocate us when our 90 minutes was up. Bad because a) our food came at lightening speed and b) it was literally dropped on our table with no offer of condiments etc from the waitress.

All is not lost though, I've read The grill at Hoxton, Shoreditch is a bit better so I'll be checking it out for myself in the near future.

Where? High Holborn, not to be confused with the original Hoxton Hotel in Shoreditch, as my dinner partner did. 'Nuf said. 

Do? Go if you're a group of 20/30-somethings looking for a vibrant and showy place to hang in Central London.

Don't? Go if you're looking for a cheap night out, we racked up a £100 bill in the blink of an eye, largely down to the cocktails.

The menu



The burger (sprouts just out of focus) 


'Cherryade' cocktail (winner)


'Cucumber & elderflower' cocktail


A 'Soho mule' 


Friday, 14 November 2014

An après shopping treat

What? Le-chalet: a winter pop-up adorning Selfridges roof, serving alpine delights and winter-warmers. The people behind le-Chalet brought us Q-Grill in the summer and following it's success have transformed it into le-Chalet, which is due to grace the rooftops until February, at least.

You enter le-Chalet via a 'secret lift' which for reference isn't secret as such but does take some time to find (opposite Chanel) You're shuttled to the roof and on arrival find the first photo opportunity, a tastefully festive corridor. 

I found the staff, who were dressed in fetching white polo-necks and le Chalet gillets, very attentive. In fact our waiter (who I likened to the delightful Jose Mourinho) pretty much ordered for us and a great job he did. Flatbread with pumpkin hummus, which I'm not actually sure was hummus but it was equally as quaffable. Chicken schnitzel and blue cheese fondue, with a side of roasted vegetables to ensure we got one of our five a day. I'd of eaten more but had my sights set firmly on the drinks.

Where? Oxford street. If I need to explain where Selfridges is shame on you.

Do? Ask to be seated further up the restaurant, nearer the bar area. We felt slightly harassed by shoppers passing through narrow spaces with their big yellow bags.

Don't? Leave without having a choctail, le-Chalet's boozy take on hot chocolate. Do make sure you save it for afters though, the sweet-tooth in me dived straight in and quickly realised it wasn't very complimentary to my schnitzel. 

Pumpkin homous.


Chicken schnitzel with blue cheese fondue


Hazelnut hot chocolate


Sunday, 2 November 2014

Breakfast in a bank

What? The Wolseley, an institution for some and a venue that has attracted the odd celeb or three in the past (FYI they are mostly at Chitern Fire House these days). Expect lots of chino wearing and newspaper reading types, eating uncomplex 'Victoriana' food.

Where? Set in Royal Green Park The Wolseley shares a neighbourhood with The Ritz and Fortnum & Mason. A stones throw away from the pearls of Bond Street I'm sure it marks the beginning of an expensive day for some.

Do? Book at least two weeks in advance and take someone who doesn't live in the city, they have probably read about it in Time Out/an online restaurant guide and will therefore probably like it, even if you don't.

Don't? Come here if you're after high quality, which you may expect from a) its location and b) prices. Set in what was a bank way back when, The Wolseley is very fine in it's appearance but it's food doesn't match up, nor compete with London today. It's by no means terrible and I respect their traditional values but think they could serve food that is a bit less canteen and more befitting of it's surroundings (& price). Like all brands they can't survive on their name forever.



Good things come to those who wait

What? Dabbous, the restaurant that opened two years ago and took six months to get a table at and still does. I'll cut to the chase and rate it one of the best dining experiences I've had within the M4 for a few years, making the long anticipated wait absolutely worth it. 

Food decisions are kept simple with two set menus, tasting and a 4-course dinner. Dishes are creative but the right side of experimental. We chose dinner as four courses felt more doable, and out it came. Raw scallop with (a hint of) eucalyptus; who knew you could eat scallop raw? Poached cod with shrimps and the creamiest polenta you'll ever eat, followed by the most tender veal with winter vegetables. I even ate the mushrooms and I hate mushrooms! 

Dessert was a warm, delicate honey & fig cake served with a frothy almond milk drink, automatically transporting me to Wonderland. Just when you thought it was all over out came the petit four, a cigar leaf caramel chocolate which did funny things to your mouth. 

What makes Dabbous so fabulous, apart from the food, environment and attentive but not annoying waiting staff, is that Ollie Dabbous is in the kitchen, not like 'celebrity chefs' who can be found hidden somewhere among their empire. It's worth noting at this point that Ollie has one further restaurant 'Barnyard' just a few hundred meters away. To sum it up it feels like Ollie has written a list of things that create a bad dining experience and made sure his restaurant is anything but.

Where? London's advertising district Goodge Street. It's discreet and minimalist so easily passable.

Do? Stay up late or get up super early to book a table, bookings open at midnight. It's a small restaurant so the opportunity will pass, quickly.

Don't? Leave without having a night cap or two in the downstairs cocktail bar, not only is it super convenient but the cocktails are as immaculate as the food.

Dinner menu £52 per person. Excludes wine or service.


Friday, 31 October 2014

Copita, putting tapas back on the map

What? Copita, a gaustro tapas bar with a menu that celebrates it's Spanish heritage (of course) but with added flare. For instance a plate of partially dried manchego became a more elequant looking cheese board and potato bravas with aioli, sweet potato with bravas sauce and peanuts. Then there were lots of dishes that are less expected of a tapas bar; roasted vegetables, red wine & lentils (meaty without a trace of meat) and deliciously sweet parsnip with roasted hazelnuts. It was the truffled goats cheese with honey and almonds that stole the show though, so much so we ordered two. We were less convinced by the ajo blanco and beetroot but one in five unsavory dishes wasn't bad.

Where? Tucked behind Oxford Street on D'Arblay Street, or across from Bodeans if that means more to you.

Do? Go as a small group so you can sample as much of their 25 strong menu as possible and be sure to wash it down with a goblet of generously poured 'gin tonic' (as the Spanish like to call it).

Don't? Go to Copita if you're hard of hearing or have a headache, the collective sound of 50+ diners in a 4x4 room meant I was glad to have perfected the art of lip reading. For that reason also not ideal for first dates, unless you don't mind getting close of course.

6 dishes, bread + 2 gin tonics, c.£25 each, between 3.


Monday, 22 September 2014

The food in Goring is one in a Mill-ion

What? The Miller of Mansfield, a 15 room inn / pub / dining experience recently taken over by Heston Boumenthal protègès. They serve fine ales (approved by the boyf) a large selection of wines (approved by me) and celebrate the mills heritage in their menu; expect home made bread & butter and dishes with the likes of Pearl Barley. 

Where? Nestled in the beautifully sleepy Thames-side village of Goring, just 50 minutes from London Paddington and a 3 minute walk from Goring & Streatley station. It's an idealic location for an overnight stay so how convenient that The Miller has accommodation! Hotels (if we can catergorise the Miller as such) have gained a mixed reputation where food is concerned but don't be fooled, food is definitely the main event here.

Do? Stay over, that way your get to experience breakfast as well as dinner. Dinner is, if you like, three courses with an amuse-bouche. Main was the most wonderfully cooked duck with layered potato, sausage & beetroot and dessert, chocolate custard with home-made fudge & sesame crisps. Breakfast is a buffet and/or a cooked menu, which includes the best sausages you'll ever taste. 

Don't? Leave without trying a sausage roll (yes there's a sausage theme here). I did and I'm regretting it. I'm not especially a fan of sausage rolls but the scent of them as we walked through the bar was overpowering.

Three courses with amuse bouche plus 2 large glasses of wine c. £45.

Pictured. Salmon, duck and chocolate custard.




Sunday, 7 September 2014

Bovey Castle: A fairy tail castle lacking the royal servants

What? Bovey Castle, a quintessentially British country house estate. Home to 60 or so rooms, a spa, 18 hole golf course and all the country pursuits you could possibly imagine.

Where? Set in the 326 miles of Dartmoor, South Devon. It really is in the middle of nowhere so take a sat nav, or a helicopter.

Do? Order a large afternoon tea each if you're hungry. We had one to share and ended up with one of everything. It wasn't disastrous but I like my sweet things and I'd have liked one to myself, especially the one bite wonders.

Don't? Expect amazing service. I initially tried to book online (via email) and after a week had no response. When I called to book there was no acknowledgement of this, nor apology. I asked if we could sit on the terrace if it was nice, and called the day prior to make sure this request could be honoured. On the day we were guided to a table indoors, and of course there were no available tables outdoors. There was no offer of extra tea, nor any level of attentiveness by the waiting staff. All quite surprising for an establishment that boasts such an upmarket clientele.



A hidden gem in Coffinswell

What. The Linny, an old coachouse dating back to 1300s. Full of history and interesting artifacts, plus great food and locally brewed beverages.

Where. Tucked away in Coffinswell, a small but beautiful hamlet lined with thatched cottages, hidden down a country lane in Kingskerswell, Devon.

Do. Leave room for dessert, if you can. My recommendation, the chocolate brownie. It's the best I've ever eaten; dense, intense and moist, just as a brownie should be. 

Don't. Leave it until you've finished to order a taxi, even if the taxi firm tells you it's fine to. It won't be, especially if it's a Saturday night and you'll be stranded in the middle of nowhere.




Saturday, 26 July 2014

Gimme a piece of pizza

What? Rossopomodoro, whose pizzas are as much of a mouthful as their name. This is Napoli's no.1 pizza brand, recently extended to the UK. I normally favour more independent family run Italians, but because it's a business with italian heritage it feels a lot more novel than say, Pizza Express. We couldn't fault the pizza, solid in size; good crust; no soggyness or scrimping on the toppings.

Where? Jameston Road, Camden. They have 5 further restaurants dotted around North, South, East & West London.

Do? Have the pizza (as opposed to pasta) but to share, and make sure whoever you're dining with has something else, so you can sample other things on the menu. I'm not normally impressed by pasta because you can make it easily at home, but some of the Roasopomodoro's dishes did get my attention. 

Don't? Pass Rossopomodoro off as just another pizza chain. Yes the music is a bit euro-trash but everything is genuinely italian, from the recipes and ingredients; through to the staff and fellow diners.

Pictured. Verduretta (vegetarian pizza) & insalatuccia (mixed leaves, cherry tomato, carrot & red onion salad)

£20 for a pizza & salad to share, washed down with 2 glasses of wine.



Sunday, 20 July 2014

A Turkish casbah in North London

What? Kusadasi, a proper family run Turkish restaurant with a wide ranging menu. My relationship with this restaurant began as a post-drinking joint, but over time has flourished in to a discovery of amazing food. If you get to know the owner he invites you to sample Turkish tea whilst you wait for your food to be prepared, yes we have been that much.

Where? Fortess Road, Tufnell Park. North London.

Do? Have the chicken shish which is cooked on hot coals and comes in what I can only describe as a 'spongy' wrap (not too heavy on the carbs) which comes warm & stuffed with fresh salad. You'll probably manage one between two.

Don't? Be put off by the fact that at first glance this looks a run of the mill kebab shop, it's not. The food in this place is suitable for more than just soaking up the booze and we now call on our Turkish friends weekly.

The chicken shish

The taste of Portugal

What? Canelacafe, a modern Portuguese cafe-cum-restaurant, but more of a nice cafe to be honest. At first sight the menu reads like a Masterchef-contestant-gone-mad in the kitchen, with large plates such as 'beef stew with poached egg & grilled banana' but thankfully it doesn't taste as such. The food is pleasant enough, and there are plenty of less adventurous dishes if you don't like the boeuf & banana combo.

Where? Seven-Dials, Covent Garden. The more upmarket end, a bit more removed from the tourist trail.

Do? Ask the waiter twice for things, three times in fact. And then stop asking because you can't be bothered to anymore. As charming & enthusiastic as he was he had very selective hearing. Beyond that he was friendly and very enthusiastic! 

Don't? Drink too much, they don't have a toilet. Well they do but it's next door, ironically making the convenience an inconvenience.

£25 for a few small plates; bottle of wine & dessert to share.

Cod, crisps & egg and cheese breads.



Scone in a flash at Bettys

What? Betty's, a quintessentially British tea room serving a range of delightful sweet and savoury dishes, along with a wide selection if teas, coffees and soft drinks. Far nicer than a pit-stop at Costa or Starbucks.

Where? York and a few other locations across the North, including Harrogate and Bradford.

Do? Go to 'Little Bettys' just off The Shambles. Yes there is more likely to be a queue, but it's set in a beautiful town house, making it a far more authentic experience, and is nestled among the more desirable shops.

Don't? Go without having a 'Fat Rascal' or at least a bit of someone else's (just make sure you're with that person). It's a scone-come-teacake that and is delivered to your table fresh out of the oven, well warm at least. Clearly their signature cake for a reason.

Chox pastry wheel with cream & strawberry (in homage to Tour de France) and a Fat Rascal.

Naan out of 10 for Chilli Lounge

What? Chilli Lounge, a contemporary Indian with all the traditional dishes, and a fair bit more.

Where? Huddersfield town centre, a stones throw away from the train station.

Do? Read the menu online before you go. It has over 300 items and if you're anything like me will get lost in a sea of words and still not know what you want after 10 minutes of studying it. The choice is good, the choosing harder.

Don't? Order a starter or one of their large Bangla beers, unless you've brought your fat pants or filling up on gas doesn't affect your ability to eat copious amounts of food. Lesson learnt. The food portions are generous and you'll be groaning with fullness through the night.

Starter; main; rice & bread to share and a beer £16. Bargain.

Chilliloungehuddersfield.co.uk



Egg & soldiers takes on crème brûlée

Creme Brulee with a passion fruit puree; desserts take on egg & soldiers at The Dolls House.


Great place for Sunday lunch if you’re after something a bit different to a gastro pub or food market. Be prepared for an ever changing menu, and to be well fed!


£20 with a ginger beer or two, and no Shoreditch attitude in sight.


thedeaddollsclub.com


Friday, 18 July 2014

Sea food & eat it

What? BOB’s Lobster. A camper-van-turned-catering-van that offers a small range of lobster dishes, all of which can be washed down with a modest glass of prosecco or Czechnian lager.


Where? Borough Lates (and other good food markets around London)


Do? Have the lobster mac & cheese. It was so delightful I didn’t have time to capture it on camera.


Don't? Go if you’re a Lobster connoisseur. It was ok, good enough for a mobile business but I prefer my lobster in a proper restaurant. Wright Bros. was directly opposite and I couldn’t help but wish…


The lobster roll


A simply delightful breakfast

What? The Providores and Tapa Room. A great parent friendly restaurant, with ever changing and slightly alternative menus. Look for the queue out the door.


Where? The best street in Central London has to offer (in my book at least) - Marylebone High Street.


Do? Book! And a good week or so in advance, particularly if breakfasting at the weekend. Also make sure you go with a healthy appetite, we literally rolled out…


Don’t? Book in to the Tapa Room if you have a raging hangover, the music was loud and the noise of other punters bounced off the walls. The Providores is the far better option if you want a bit of peace, as well as a slightly more formal dining experience.


Pictured: French toast stuffed with banana and pecans, smoked streaky bacon and vanilla verjus syrup.


About £15-£20 for breakfast and a drink.


theprovidores.co.uk


Let them eat cake, and lots of it

What? Choccywoccydodah, the weird and wonderful place that is so much so C4 commissioned a programme about it. It’s the perfect non-alcoholic post shopping antidote and makes other high-street alternatives seem dull in comparison.


Where? Just off Carnaby Street, left passed Miss Sixty.


Do? Be prepared to wait a few minutes for a table, and have a sugar free 24 hours prior to paying these guys a visit, you’ll be buzzing when you leave.


Don't? Have a slice of cake to yourself, unless you haven’t eaten for two days; the portions in this place are EPIC and could probably wedge a door open. You have been warned...


£2.50ish for a hot chocolate. £5 for a wedge of cake.


The Hot chocolate


Meat, drink & be happy.

What? Flat Iron, a small and in demand restaurant specialising in, flat iron steak of course. For a mere £10 you can have a a juicy steak with, at extra cost, sides such as creamed spinach, parmesan aubergine and chips. Quite novelly each steak comes with a mini clever, a few of which have probably gone missing over the months… You wouldn't find one in my kitchen drawer, honest.


Where? Beak Street, Soho. Walk to the Soho end of Carnaby Street and turn right. Keep your eyes peeled though, you could easily miss it.


Do? Save room for a warm donut or the salted caramal mousse, which the waitress pipes at your table from a big metal canister.


Don't? Be put off by the wait. Whilst you often have to wait for a table you’re normally called to it before said waiting time. If you do have to wait a while you can easily lose time in the downstairs bar.


Flat iron steak; chips; creamed spinach; aubergine


Monday, 30 June 2014

The best calamari in London, I squid you not

What? Busaba Eathai. A modern thai canteen set up by Alan Yau, also the creator of media darling's favourite, Hakkasan. Busaba boasts everything you would expect from a traditional thai restaurant, and gives as good as they get. The shining stars in my book are the Mussuman Duck Curry, Morning Glory and Pad Thai. Disappointingly they’ve done away with the monkfish curry and a rather satifsfying steak, but I guess the menu has to keep the more regular punters on their toes.


Where? Various locations in Central, East, West and South London.


Do? Have the thai calamari (pictured). This isn’t your run of the mill beige-platter-style-calamari, this is well textured, crunchy and delicately infused with ginger. It’s rare to see a fellow diner without it. Dreamy.


Don't? Go if you can’t bear lots of noise, the acoustics in this place are epic. It's also worth noting that Busaba sits punters on large canteen style tables so you’re likely to end up on one with a few randoms, unless you go as a group of eight and claim one all to yourselves. Unlikely.


£25 for a main, side and drink. That side should definitely be the calamari, and if you’re not on the booze I’m a huge advocate of the cherry soda.



Thai Calamari